Khotachiwadi: Mumbai's Most Beautiful Urban Village

Khotachiwadi, a hidden gem nestled in the bustling Girgaon area of Mumbai, is a unique heritage village that offers a glimpse into the city's rich cultural past. This quaint neighborhood, with its distinctive Portuguese-style architecture, stands as a testament to Mumbai's diverse history and the resilience of its residents.

Historical Origins

Khotachiwadi's story begins in the late 18th century, during a time of significant change in Mumbai's landscape. In 1661, Bombay was transferred to the British as part of a royal dowry, and by 1668, it had become a key outpost of the British East India Company. Following the great fire of 1803 that destroyed British fortifications, the Company initiated a fresh planning of the isle, dividing land to develop its resources.

It was during this period that Khotachiwadi was assigned to Dadoba Waman Khot, a Pathare Prabhu land revenue officer. Khot began selling plots of land to local East Indian families, laying the foundation for what would become a vibrant, multicultural community. The settlement was officially named Khotachiwadi in 1880 by the Bombay Municipal Corporation, honoring its founder.

Architectural Heritage

Khotachiwadi's architecture is a captivating blend of Portuguese and Indian styles, reflecting the area's unique cultural fusion. The village originally comprised 65 bungalows, though only about 28 remain today due to urban development pressures.

Key architectural features of Khotachiwadi homes include:

• Sloping rooftops with Mangalore tiles

• Wooden facades and porches

• Open verandahs facing the street

• External staircases leading to upper floors

• Intricate wooden balustrades and carved fascias

• Cast-iron and timber balustrades

• Vibrant color schemes ranging from bright red to soothing yellow

These structures, with their charming details and compact build, create a streetscape that transports visitors to a bygone era, offering a stark contrast to the surrounding modern cityscape.

Cultural Tapestry

Khotachiwadi's cultural heritage is as rich and diverse as its architecture. Initially home to Marathis and Christians, the community expanded to include Gujaratis, Marwaris, and Sindhis around the 1940s. This multicultural mix has created a unique social fabric that is evident in the area's festivals and daily life.

The neighbourhood celebrates a variety of festivals throughout the year, including:

• Holi

• Ganpati

• Navratri

• Christmas, in particular, has become a major event in Khotachiwadi over the past decade. The bungalows are adorned with fairy lights, and the Girgaum Catholic Club buzzes with activity. Visitors from across Mumbai flock to the village to join in the merrymaking, making it a showcase of the area's vibrant community spirit.

Notable Khotachiwadi Landmarks

Khotachiwadi's charm lies in its unique landmarks that offer glimpses into its rich history and cultural heritage:

The Chapel: Built in the late 19th century as a gesture of gratitude for sparing residents from the 1890s plague, this small red-painted structure features a crucified Christ idol and captivating graffiti of Mary holding baby Jesus.

Ferreira House: Home to fashion designer James Ferreira, this house preserves a piece of the historic Quercia tree log in its front porch.

Ideal Wafer House: The only three-storied structure in the community, it now houses a popular chips shop on its front porch.

Khanderao Block: A chawl built for helpers working for Khotachiwadi residents, it represents an extension of Portuguese architectural styles with porches on every floor.

These landmarks, along with the colourful Portuguese-style bungalows and winding lanes, create a unique urban village atmosphere that transports visitors to a bygone era in the heart of bustling Mumbai.

Preservation Efforts and Challenges

Khotachiwadi's journey as a heritage precinct has been fraught with challenges. In 1995, it was declared a protected heritage precinct by the Bombay Municipal Corporation. However, this status was reversed in 2006, leaving the area vulnerable to redevelopment pressures.

The Maharashtra Rent Control Act of 1999 further complicated matters by limiting the rent landlords could charge for buildings constructed before 1969. This lack of economic incentive, combined with the absence of clear guidelines for heritage property maintenance, has put Khotachiwadi's future at risk.

In response to these challenges, residents and activists have mobilized to protect their unique neighborhood. The Khotachiwadi Welfare and Heritage Trust, established in 2003, has been at the forefront of these efforts, organizing protests and awareness campaigns. As of May 2022, the Brihanmumbai Municipal Corporation (BMC) was conceptualizing a project to revive and conserve the built heritage of Khotachiwadi.

Contemporary Significance

Today, Khotachiwadi stands as a living museum, offering a glimpse into Mumbai's multicultural past. Its narrow lanes, lined with Portuguese-style houses, provide a stark contrast to the surrounding high-rises, serving as a reminder of the city's architectural diversity.

The area has also adapted to contemporary needs, with some bungalows repurposed as bed and breakfasts, design galleries, or vintage boutiques. This blend of preservation and adaptation has helped Khotachiwadi maintain its relevance in modern Mumbai while retaining its unique character.

Khotachiwadi's enduring charm lies not just in its architectural beauty but in the vibrant community that calls it home. It serves as a testament to Mumbai's cosmopolitan spirit and the importance of preserving cultural heritage in the face of rapid urbanisation.

Here are a few pictures I captured on my photowalk in Khotachiwadi, Mumbai. 👇