Beyond Chapel Road: Ranwar VILLAGE's Secret Cultural Mosaic

Ranwar Village, a 300-year-old enclave in Bandra, Mumbai, offers a captivating blend of Indo-Portuguese heritage architecture and vibrant street art, showcasing the area's rich history while embracing contemporary cultural influences.

Historical Roots of Ranwar

Tracing its origins to at least 1716, as evidenced by records at St. Andrew's Church, Ranwar Village is believed to be even older. It was one of the 24 original pakhadis or hamlets that formed Bandra, established during Portuguese rule which began in 1534 when they settled in the area then known as 'Bandora'. Built on elevated land, Ranwar was initially surrounded by paddy fields, coconut groves, and vegetable gardens, which formed the primary occupation of its residents. The village's name itself is steeped in history, with some sources suggesting it may have derived from the Portuguese word 'ranhoa', meaning quarrelsome, possibly due to disputes over land or water.

Unique Architectural Features

Distinctive Indo-Portuguese-Anglo architecture characterises the buildings in Ranwar Village, with many structures dating back at least 100 years. These heritage homes feature large wooden porches, spiraling staircases, and gabled roofs, reflecting the area's colonial influences. Vibrant facades, often adorned with blue and yellow doors, showcase intricate woodwork and ornate balconies, creating a visually striking streetscape. Despite urban pressures, many residents have preserved their old bungalows, maintaining the village's unique architectural identity and resisting the trend towards high-rise development.

Bollywood Art Project Impact

Launched in 2012, the Bollywood Art Project (BAP) has transformed Ranwar Village into a vibrant open-air gallery, creating approximately 45 murals featuring iconic Bollywood figures. Led by artist Ranjit Dahiya, BAP has revitalized worn-out walls with colorful depictions of cinema legends, from Dadasaheb Phalke to contemporary stars like Irrfan Khan. This initiative has not only preserved the village's cultural heritage but also attracted photographers, tourists, and art enthusiasts, turning Ranwar into a popular spot for art walks and cultural tours. The project has fostered community engagement, with some homeowners offering their walls as canvases, creating a unique dialogue between the village's historic architecture and contemporary street art.

Culinary Delights of Ranwar

Ranwar Village offers a diverse culinary scene that blends traditional East Indian flavors with modern café culture. The area is home to several noteworthy eateries:

• Santa Maria, a charming Goan sandwich spot, serves artisanal sandwiches inspired by Goan, East Indian, Catholic, and Manglorean cuisines.

• Morii, a popular café, offers gelatos, ice creams, desserts, and an all-day breakfast menu.

• The Ranch specializes in craft burgers and hot dogs, perfect for satisfying cravings.

• Earth Café provides fresh, gluten-free, and dairy-free options for health-conscious diners.

• Café Mav's blends Irish classics with European favorites, offering dishes like Irish Mutton Stew and Elvis Presley French toast.

• Kepchaki Momos, established in 2011, has become a beloved spot for momo enthusiasts. Located at 73 Waroda Road, next to Veronica's in Bandra West, this eatery specializes in Tibetan-style dumplings. Known for their innovative approach, Kepchaki offers a unique "momo platter" that allows customers to sample various flavors. Their menu extends beyond traditional momos, featuring creative variations that cater to diverse palates.

• Kalpana Snacks Mart, situated on Hill Road in Bandra West, is a longstanding fixture in the neighbourhood's food landscape. This bakery and snack shop is renowned for its freshly baked goods and pastries. A local favorite is their meat cutlets, which have garnered a loyal following among residents and visitors alike4. Kalpana Snacks Mart's affordable pricing and consistent quality make it a go-to spot for quick bites and takeaway snacks, adding to Ranwar's diverse culinary offerings.

• Veronica's, a trendy all-day sandwich shop, has quickly become a culinary hotspot in Bandra's Ranwar Village. Located at the junction of Waroda Road and Veronica Street, it occupies the iconic St. Jude's Bakery space, blending modern flavors with the area's rich heritage. The eatery offers a diverse menu featuring adventurous sandwiches, artisanal breads, and globally-inspired combinations.

For those interested in traditional East Indian cuisine, local homes sometimes open their kitchens to visitors, serving authentic dishes like pork sorpotel, vindaloo, potato chops, and fugias. The iconic East Indian bottle masala, a blend of sun-dried spices, remains a crucial ingredient in many local dishes, preserving the area's culinary heritage

Festivals and Celebrations Unique to Ranwar

Ranwar Village comes alive during its vibrant festivals, showcasing the rich cultural heritage of its predominantly East Indian Catholic community. The annual Ranwar Village Festival, held in December, transforms Veronica Street and Ranwar Square into a festive wonderland. This three-day event features traditional East Indian cuisine, including specialties like bottle masala, fugia bread, and chittiyaps. Visitors can also explore local crafts and enjoy cultural performances that highlight the village's Portuguese-influenced traditions.

Another significant celebration is the Mount Mary Fair, a week-long festival that begins on the first Sunday after September 8. During this time, a young girl representing the Lady of Mount walks through the entire village, symbolising the community's deep-rooted faith. The Ranwar Square Cross, erected in 1866, serves as a focal point for religious gatherings, with Cross feasts celebrated at the end of May and October. These festivals not only preserve Ranwar's unique cultural identity but also attract visitors, offering a glimpse into the village's rich history and vibrant community spirit.

Challenges and Future Plans

Facing challenges due to its location in bustling Bandra, Ranwar Village grapples with increasing traffic congestion in its narrow streets. To address these issues and preserve its heritage, a comprehensive beautification project is underway. This initiative aims to improve signage, create walkways, and introduce elements that highlight the gaothan (village) culture. Additionally, there are ongoing discussions about tapping into Ranwar's tourism potential while balancing the needs of modern living. The Ranwar Veronica Street Residents' Association, active since 2009, continues to work on improving open spaces, roads, sewage systems, and traffic management to enhance the quality of life for residents while maintaining the village's unique character.

Here are a few pictures I captured on my photowalk in Ranwar Village, Bandra, Mumbai. 👇